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Focke Wulf Fw 190 A3
Tamiya - 1/48
by Francesco Marchesani
THE MODEL
Classic Tamia kit, easy and fast to assemble. Minor problems
joining the fuselage and the lower part of engine’s hood,
have been solved with a bit of plasticard and Milliput putty. |
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CONSTRUCTION
Before starting the work, I washed accurately all the pieces with
liquid soap and then with alcohol.
I started by mounting the cockpit, then painting it with RLM66,
black washing and dry-brushing with a lighter shade of grey; I
painted some details in red and yellow with a thin brush.
The kit has very detailed interior, which I improved just by adding
Eduard’s photoengraved safety-belts.
I treated the engine with a base of steel by Lifecolor and subsequent
black and Judaean tar washings before finishing with a light dry-brushing
with Lifecolor steel.
After this phase, I glued the two halves of the fuselage by using
a thin brush dipped into trichloroethylene: while doing so, I
warn you to place a fan blowing behind you or keep the windows
of your room opened.
Before mounting the wings, I sprayed the landing-gears’
pits with RM 66 with subsequent washing with black (oil painting)
and dry-brushing with lighter 66 to enhance them.
Firstly, I mounted the lower part of the wings, in one piece,
and secondly the upper parts with the already mentioned problem
of the non-perfectly aligned engine’s hood: plasticard and
milliput worked the “miracle.”
Afterwards, I filled the
cockpit and the landing-gears’
pits with wet toilet paper
and used Tamya tape and Microscale
maskol to mask both the inner
and outer side of the canopy’s
fixed and sliding parts.
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PAINTING
Before painting, I washed the entire model with alcohol to degrease
it.
I started by painting the rudder and the lower part of the engine
hood with RLM 04 Lifecolor and successively masked the model.The
inner side of landing-gear’s covers and the struts have
been painted with RLM 02 Lifecolor: the shock-absorbing parts
have been treated with Citadel steel. Moreover, I used electric
wire painted in yellow and brown to simulate pipes.
The wheel got glossy Gunze black paint by brush, while I painted
the tyres in dark grey and then dry-brushed them in lighter grey.
I sprayed the fuselage and the lower part of the wings with RLM
76 Gunze, successively lightened and more diluted in order to
brush the inner panels.
After masking all the parts with paper tape, I made some thin
“sausages” with Uhu Tac where the colour had to be
shaded on the fuselage and the leading edge of the wings, which
would not be painted anymore.
With RLM 75 Gunze I painted everything and then lightened the
inner panels, which I masked afterwards, before spraying RLM 74
Gunze the way I have already explained.
After taking away all the maskings, I camouflaged the sides of
the fuselage with RLM 74 and 75.
Two generous layers of Microscale glossy transparent came before
the decals (all of them from the kit), from which I cut no. 3
and WN away, in order to get a plane different from the usual
“black 13.”
A layer more hid the remaining film of the decals and then I started
the “washing” with sepia oil pastel.
Black, grey and brown pastels simulated the stains of the engine,
weapons and oil.
Eventually, the assembling of struts, canopy, 20mm wing cannons
(simulated with needles for syringe), propeller and spinner painted
in RLM 70 Gunze concluded the work along with some scrapings brushed
with a thin brush in Citadel colour and the aerial obtained from
plastic sprue.
A Gunze matt transparent sealed everything.
A special thank to all the
plane modeller enthusiasts who with
advice, documents and encouragement
allowed me to conclude a work
that has amused and satisfied
me.
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